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Climate and tectonic processes are the main contributors to relative sea level change.

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Relative sea level fluctuates constantly throughout the day.

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Plunging breakers are more common on west coast beaches because of the shape of the shoreline.

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True

West coast coastlines have more cliffs and rocky shorelines due to their proximity to active convergent and transform boundaries.

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From the perspective of someone standing in the water on the shoreline, explain what wavelength, wave height, and period are and how they might measure it for a wave.

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wave height (H) is the difference in hei...

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Describe what happens to waves as they hit the shoreline.

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The shape of the motion of an object on ...

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Describe the fundamental differences in the topography and coastal hazards between East Coast U.S. and West Coast U.S. beaches.

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The east coast of the United States is d...

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Describe one soft stabilization method, how it works to minimize coastal erosion and the drawbacks of using it.

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Beach nourishment consists of artificially placing sand on beaches in the hope of constructing a positive beach budget, where more sand remains in storage than leaves in output. Coastal zone bioengineering (CZB) is an emerging coastal defense that uses living or dead plants to assist in erosion control. CZB is a relatively new concept being tested.

Swells refer to the trough of the wave.

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If you are wading on the edge of the ocean where the waves move in and out, you are probably in the swash zone.

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Which of the following is NOT a coastal hazard?


A) Coastline erosion
B) Strong coastal currents
C) Storm surge
D) Tsunamis
E) Earthquakes

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At what depth do waves begin to slow down and "feel bottom"?


A) At depth equal to twice the wavelength
B) At depth equal to one wavelength
C) At depth equal to Β½ wavelength
D) At depth equal to ΒΌ wavelength
E) Never. Waves don't slow down.

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The most effective hard stabilization is beach replenishment.

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If you placed a small boat in waves in the open ocean (not near the shoreline) what would the motion of the boat be?


A) Up and down slowly moving towards shoreline
B) Up and down slowly moving out to sea
C) Circular pattern staying mostly in the same place
D) Circular pattern slowly moving towards the shoreline
E) Circular pattern slowly moving out to sea

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Which type of wave would you expect to see on a barrier island on the East Coast of the United States?


A) Plunging breaker
B) Spilling breaker
C) Tidal wave
D) Sonic wave
E) Tropical wave

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What is the effect of leveling the sand dunes on a barrier island?


A) It makes them more vulnerable to storms.
B) It puts more sand on the beach increasing the size of the beach.
C) It puts less sand on the beach decreasing the size of the beach.
D) It requires hard stabilization methods such as seawalls to control rates of erosion.
E) It makes the island less heavy, causing it to rise.

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Most of the sand moves parallel to the shoreline due to longshore currents.

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Explain the differences between eustatic and relative sea level.

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The position of the sea at the shore, re...

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The main problem with engineering solutions to shoreline erosion is that it is expensive, but it generally solves the problem once stabilizations are put in place.

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Waves approaching an irregular shoreline speed up and break when they hit the headlands and slow down in the quiet beaches.

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False

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