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Wave height of wind waves depends on


A) wavelength.
B) windspeed and duration.
C) fetch.
D) wavelength and windspeed and duration.
E) windspeed and duration and fetch.

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A wave with a height of 4ft will have _______ as much energy as a 2ft wave.


A) two times
B) four times
C) six times
D) eight times
E) ten times

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When waves arrive at monitoring stations set up long distances from a storm center, which waves arrive first?


A) Long-period waves
B) Short-period waves
C) Steeper waves
D) Internal waves
E) Capillary waves

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The orbital motion of a deep water wave extends to a depth equal to


A) twice the wavelength.
B) the wave's height.
C) one-half the wavelength.
D) one-half the wave's height.
E) the seafloor depth.

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Water particle orbits of shallow water waves change only their vertical dimension with depth.

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True

The maximum diameter of a water particle orbit of a deep water wave is defined by wave


A) steepness.
B) height.
C) length.
D) period.
E) speed.

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On a standing wave, maximum vertical movement occurs at the node.

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The equation C = gT/2n; is appropriate to determine the speed of a deep water wave.

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A group of waves is propagated at a speed that is _______ the speed of the individual waves in deep water.


A) twice
B) the same as
C) one-half
D) one-quarter
E) one-tenth

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Water particles in deep-water waves move in ________ orbits.

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A long wave with a period of about fifteen minutes will travel across the oceans at a speed of approximately


A) 2m/sec.
B) 20m/sec.
C) 200m/sec.
D) 2km/sec.
E) 20km/sec.

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The amplitude of a wave is about _____ the wave height.


A) one-fourth
B) one-half
C) the same as
D) twice
E) four times

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Waves occurring at the interface between layers of seawater and fresh water are called


A) freshwater waves.
B) interference waves.
C) density waves.
D) internal waves.
E) surface waves.

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Shallow-water waves will change direction as they approach shore in a process called ________.

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Constructive interference between waves increases the height of the resulting wave.

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When deep-water waves travel away from a storm, the longer waves move faster than the shorter waves.  This process is called sorting, or ________.

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Shorter period waves travel faster than longer period waves.

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False

If a wave is a capillary wave, the force that causes the water to return to its undisturbed level is


A) gravity.
B) wind.
C) seismic forces.
D) surface tension.
E) All of these are correct.

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Water protected from direct wave influence behind a breakwater can be placed in motion by wave


A) diffraction.
B) refraction.
C) reflection.
D) All of these are correct.
E) None of these are correct.

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A

The refraction of waves tends to concentrate wave energy ______ and disperse energy _____.


A) in bays; on headlands
B) on headlands; in bays
C) along coasts; behind breakwaters
D) along coasts; on headlands
E) along coasts; in bays

Correct Answer

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